As the final part of my project to augment my formal wardrobe – the previous ones being measurements and fabric selections, and the classic grey suit – I decided to go for something a bit different and, with western fashion in mind, contemporary: a Chinese suit, also called a mandarin suit. No, not like the citrus fruit, those are for Halloween – and I don’t think they come in jet black like this one does.
As far as the style goes, it’s much simpler than the western suits; the jacket, also known as a Bangala, is closed all the way up to the upright mandarin collar, and should stay that way while you wear it. You don’t unbutton it when sitting down, like you would with a classic one.
Underneath is a shirt with a mandarin collar – ties or other accessories are not used. There is a breast pocket where you can put a neatly folded handkerchief, but the main principle is that the entirety should be kept simple and elegant.
That’s why the texture of the fabric is important, since it has a slightly more important role than in the classic suit. For this one I opted for a lightly striped pattern, which from afar looks like a uniform texture but up-close has a more detailed motif. Going for a plain fabric could result in an overly simplistic and borderline boring look.
The suit is surprisingly comfortable and the fact that you don’t wear a tie is a big bonus. It might make me look like a Bond -villain, but I’m looking forward to donning this the next time I’m supposed to wear a dark suit.
Big thanks to Raymond’s in Phoenix Mall at Pune, especially to the master tailor. If you decide to drop by, listen to his advices and remember to address him by his title – he’s earned it.
Props to Sajjad for the photos.